As I worked my way down to Western Sahara things started flatten out and becomming more and more desert like. I was riding the road running along the Atlantic coast so there was always ocean on right side and desert on the left. The landscape were very stony at first. I also had a small mission when comming down to this area. In the handbooks by Chris Scott I had seen two big silouetts of wooden (or metal) camels at the entrance of Tan Tan and sitting home in Sweden I had promised myself I would take a picture of me and those camels if I ever got that far. Coulnd't find them though.. I spent the night at the superb (they even had hot water in the evenings for showers) camping The Royal Beduin (www.geocities.com/le_roi_bedouin) located 40km before Laayoune. There I met a really nice French surfer couple, Sophie and Anthony. They were cruising around in their newly white painted (400€) renault van (to the far right in the right picture). We went for a walk in the fantastic landscape and in the morning they asked me over for tea. They were planning to continue down to Laayoune for some surfing but fishermen had told them there were white sharks there sometimes so they were a bit cautious. They asked me over in the morning for a great breakfast of dades, sandwishes and hot moroccan tea with tons of sugar.    I left after breakfast the sky was clear and blue as usual and the sun warm as ever. Stopped for a delicious chicken tajin in the little and dirty wild western movie feeling town Tarfaya (apparently they do a lot of smuggling to Grand Canaria there I was told later). I have never felt more like a Clint Eastwood character riding into the small dusty Mexican towns, checking in to a tavern for a meal and then off with the locals sitting in the shades silently observing. Cool feeling. After that it was time to get some milage behind me. The fuel after Tarfaya was taxfree so I didnt spend much money doing the 100km between Agadir and Dakhla.    There were plenty of gasstations on the way down and I seldom had to go more than 200 km between fueling. Stopped for gas in a tiny town called Lemsid along the coastline. The sun was high and if it wasnt for the good road conditions letting me keep a relative high speed I think I would have boiled in my black outfit. After fueling at the brand spanking newly buildt gasstation I went in to get me a soda and some crackers. After just a few minutes a van pulled in and a Maroccan TV team came out and went into the station. One of them wearing a size too big grey pullover, yellow shirt and nicely trimmed mustache came back out and asked me if they could do an intervju for Maroccan Tv with me. Having nothing else to do for the moment and not really in a rush I agreed. They set a camera and started asking where I came from and how my trip has been so far. Things like that. Then the little cameraman wanted me to do an action burnout with the bike for the Maroccan viewers when I left. So I did and they all cheered me as I took of into the horizon. Stange days in the desert.    In the evening after a long drive along the coast I finally came to Dakhla. The city was placed on a peak into the Atlantic and the ride out was a totally amazing sight. Dunes and ocean waves in a extraordinary mix. Well worth the long trip just to see that. Just before the city there were two campings. One beautifully placed on the coastline in a long bend. I think that one was free but it looked a little too windy for my tent but perfect for mobile homes and likes. The other one a few km after was the excellent Moussafir camping, home of african adventurers. It seemed like most people going the way down to the desert ended up there either before or after their travels. Its located a few km outside Dakhla so if you dont have transport you can walk (if not in a hurry) or take a taxi. Or just hitch with a friendly local (I did that a few times when not taking the bike). They have both rooms (around 3€/night) and place for tents (2€). The rooms are very spartan with only a matress and a lightbulb (generator starts at 18) but clean and the staff are great people. At first the camping was and felt a bit empty except for the owner, and helpers (the guy in the small shop must have been gay and a bit hot for me because he always asked me into the shop and gave me stuff). I went into Dakhla for food and found a superb little grill house with camel meat. That fast became my choice of food there. A plate with 4-6 sticks of grilled camel meat served with a mass of olives, onion bred and chili, washed down with a sprite. Life can be so good sometimes. I also found the worlds slowest internet cafe there. But since I had plenty of time and the fee was like 3 dirhams an hour (0,3€) it worked out pretty good anyway. Back at the camping I started ask around for people who would go down into Mauretania who I could ride with since I had promised myself not to go into the desert all alone. During the day a couple of vehicles had arrived. I talked to an Italian man called Walter. Well to be honest he talked to me (in italian/english/spanish), giving me tons of tips for going into the desert pistes. He and his wife had been driving all over Mauretania in their fat Toyota Landcruiser. He had some great maps I to this day regret I didnt ask if I could take a photocopy of.		Read about my bike by clicking 'tech' in the menu.